Restaurant Ratatouille | Harderwijk (NL)

Wim Zwaart’ experience shines through with attractive, well-considered combinations.
This cooking is definitely heading towards the stars!

The historical square named the Vischmarkt in the old centre of Harderwijk (NL), used to be the place where the fishermen sold their freshly caught fish. This was in the old days, when Harderwijk was still a seaside town on the Zuiderzee. Those days are long gone and the Vischmarkt has turned into a culinary square instead. Amongst the five restaurants on the small square are restaurant ‘t Nonnetje** and Basiliek*, as well as Restaurant Ratatouille.

Husband and wife, Wim and Tina Zwaart opened Restaurant Ratatouille In 2004. It started as an approachable bistro, next to their Michelin starred restaurant Olivio, just on the other side of the square. Two years later, in 2006, they decided to close Olivio’s doors behind them. A restaurant they opened in 1994, which was awarded with a Michelin star in 2002. Having enough of the performance pressure a Michelin star brings. They kept Restaurant Ratatouille and started catering company Wentz in the nearby village of Hulshorst, which they ran together.
In June 2017 it was time for the next chapter. The catering company was sold and all attention went to Restaurant Ratatouille. A cookery school and culinary shop was added next door, with a b&b apartment on the top floor. The restaurant got a makeover last year and fine dining is what goes in this intimate and modern dining room. Head Chef Wim Zwaart is behind the stove of Restaurant Ratatouille and Sommelier Tina runs the front of house.

Restaurant Ratatouille is open for dinner on Tuesday to Sunday, for lunch on Sunday only and closed on Monday. You can choose à la carte, where all starters are €19, all mains €29 and all desserts €12. But from three dishes and more, there is a menu pricing: 3 courses at €42, 4 courses at €49, 5 courses at €59 and 6 courses at €69. accompanying wines at €7 per glass or €4 per half glass. If you don;t want alcohol, they also offer a juice arrangement instead.

I was invited to a group dinner, two weeks ago on a Wednesday. The chef prepared us a 3-course dinner.

First to arrive was a small amuse bouche. Mild onion with a lovely fennel salad with some bitterness of the radish. A nice crunchy bite of summer freshness. Next to it some nibbly seeded cheese straws.

Hollandse Nieuwe (literally translated as Dutch new ones) is a Dutch delicacy of salted herring, which is ripened for 1 to 7 days. It can only be called Hollandse Nieuwe if the herring is caught (and sold) between May and the end of August and when it is prepared in the official way. The name is even protected under European Law.
In this amuse bouche, the salted and ripened herring is dressed with a juniper berry vinaigrette and sweet and sour from the onion and the crème fraîche. Actually, Hollandse Nieuwe is one of the few things that I don’t like. But I must say, I really did enjoy this one. Need the recipe I guess!

Warm, freshly baked sourdough bread with a nice crust.

Beautifully fresh sea bass tartare, nicely seasoned. Beet juice with the herb oil worked really well with the fish, together with the peppery watercress. Loved the raw white asparagus! Almost tasted like kohlrabi. Quite surprising, but very nice indeed. Excellent dish!

Braised leg of lamb, nice and tender. Pleasing slow-cooked lamb shoulder with a white asparagus and nut salad on top. Fresh summer vegetables and a rosemary jus oozing with flavour. A very well executed and above all tasty lamb dish.

Verveine (also known as Lemon Verbena) is a herb with a fresh, lemony aroma. Together with lemon it made a bright sorbet. Great palette cleanser. A Kletskopje is a typical Dutch, hard and brittle type of cookie, with sugar, butter and peanuts or almonds as main ingredients. This time with a hint of orange. Nice!

Full sweet, marinated cherries, with the basil coming through ever so gently. Smooth ice cream, perfect for goat cheese lovers (which I am), balancing that sweetness of the cherries perfectly. Some crunchy meringue sticks on top. Great dessert with an unusual goaty twist.

Homemade sweets with our coffees. Macaron with raspberry cream, lemon tartlet and a coconut macaroon with caramelised pineapple. All nice, but the macaron definitely was my favourite.

The atmosphere in the restaurant is informal and service was relaxed but very attentive. Together with the intimacy that the small dining room brings, it makes a very comfortable surrounding.

I really liked the food. Attractive, un-gimmicky dishes with the right touch of refinement. Wim Zwaart’ experience shines through with attractive, well-considered combinations. No faffing with ingredients, just clean and distinctive flavours. This cooking is definitely heading towards the stars!

By the way, should Ratatouille be awarded with a Michelin star, then this culinary square would be the only square in the world with three Michelin starred restaurants. I would be happy with that in my home town!