The Waterside Inn *** | Bray (UK)

Faultless traditional French cooking with a refined souplesse of flavours.
But The Waterside Inn needs to raise the bar and dust off some of the tradition!

The name Roux is legendary within culinary circles. With brothers Michel and Albert making a lasting impact on British eating habits over the last four decades. It all started at the original Le Gavroche restaurant, opened in 1967 on London’s Lower Sloane Street, where they took turns in the kitchen and dining room.

In 1972, with a series of successful city restaurants under their aprons, the brothers ventured further afield, acquiring a traditional English pub in the quiet Royal Berkshire village of Bray. The pub was transformed into an elegant restaurant and cocktail bar and The Waterside Inn was born. Two years later the first Michelin star arrived in the brand-new Michelin UK guide in 1974. The second star followed in 1977 and the third in 1985, which they held ever since. Making them the UK’s longest-serving three Michelin star restaurant. An amazing achievement.

With both sons, Alain and Michel Jr, following in their fathers’ esteemed footsteps, the Rouxs separated their business interests in 1986. Albert chose Le Gavroche, while Michel opted for the Waterside Inn. And now Michel Jr. runs Le Gavroche **, while Alain heads up The Waterside Inn *** since 2002, continuing their fathers legacy.

The Waterside Inn is open for lunch and dinner on Wednesday to Sunday and is closed on Monday and Tuesday (except during Royal Ascot week). Diners can choose between à la carte and the 6-course Menu Exceptionnel (£172), available for both lunch and dinner. At lunch, there is also the 3-course Menu Roux Brittania (at £79.50).

We had lunch three weeks ago on a Sunday and went all the way with the 6-course Menu Exceptionnel.

Three amuse bouches to start us off with. The first for me was mackerel on a seaweed cracker and for Joanne a chickpea donut. The others were an almond pâte à choux and a ham hock fritter with pear. Quite rustic appearance, but perfectly made with beautiful flavour and taste.

A fine small white pain de campagne (also known as the French sourdough) was light with great crust and served with unsalted butter.

Fresh carpaccio of Loch Duart salmon, gently cured with some citrus, with seaweed and sunflower seeds, salad of kohlrabi ribbons and radishes. Surrounded by dots of pumpkin emulsion and mustard sauce. Lovely clean flavours on this homely plated dish.

A different starter for Joanne as she doesn’t eat cold fish. Pea soup with a voluptuous texture, yet light in taste with refreshing tones of parsley pesto. Flakey seared trout was delicious with the pea soup. Fantastic dish with a springy feel to it.

Next course was pan fried escalope of foie gras with pine kernels, pan fried capers, caper puree, roasted cauliflower and golden raisins. The aromatic Gewürztraminer sauce was a great companion of the foie gras. Triumphant dish of pure rich indulgence.

Poached fillet of halibut with citrus, just melted in the mouth. Mooli ribbons (Asian white radish or daikon) under the fish, almost tasted like sauerkraut. Vibrant green emulsion of lime and vodka sauce with a nice sharp flavour palette. Excellent execution of this beautiful plate.

Two options to choose from for the main course, so we had one of each. Pigeon breast with a rich game farce was sliced all neatly over cabbage and it’s partner venison had been pan roasted to greatness. A Jerusalem artichoke subric with a delicate crust, topped with wild mushrooms. Shiny poivrade sauce worked well. Fully packed with flavour dish. highlighting the gaminess beautifully.

The other main was, falling apart, braised cheek of farmed veal, with a rich and sticky Albuféra sauce. Decadent potato and truffle mousseline with plenty of black truffle shavings. Comforting dish with simply ingredients, with the truffle bringing self-indulgence.

Great palette cleanser with an intense blueberry mousse and delicate lychee sorbet. Love the combination of these flavours.

Coconut parfait was excellent texture, with pineapple confit in rum and pandan infused curd. Small chunks of honeycomb and violet flowers. Pretty dish, showing some refinement in plating. Again, perfectly made with a lovely taste and texture harmony.

Warm banana soufflé flavoured with orange and Caramélia chocolate was good, but I’ve had better. Taste and flavours were great. Not always easy to get right with a tricky flavour like banana. But I like a bit more rise in a soufflé, which also would improve the texture.

Nice selection of mignardises with a canelé, nutty macaron, clafoutis, chocolate bonbon, raspberry tartlet and nougat. I do prefer individual sweets though, instead of having to share them. But all well made. Especially liked the canelé and macaron.

Service was good, the staff friendly and well trained. But with up to twelve servers in the dining room, there were just too many, which made them very present. Our table was next to the dispensing table at the entrance of the dining room. At least five or six staff were constantly there, discussing and sometimes arguing just a few feet away from us. That didn’t help.

The food is high quality. Faultless traditional French cooking with a refined souplesse of flavours. With tastes spot on every time. But nothing wowed me and something traditional translates as old-fashioned and out-dated. At this level you expect the culinary equivalent of haute couture, a restaurant that sets the standard by which all are measured. The Waterside Inn is not there today and I can’t justify it’s current rating. Certainly not when I compare them them to places like Inter Scaldes *** and De Leest ***, or even Claude Bosi ** and The Dining Room at Whatley Manor **, just to name a few.

The Waterside Inn needs to raise the bar and dust off some of the tradition, to do justice again to their high culinary profile and prices for that matter.