Thompson’s | Newport (UK)
Dishes appear to be simple, but are a well-judged assembly of contributing elements! Showcasing the experience and expertise of the star-strewn Chef.
Thompson’s can be found in Isle of Wight’s principal town of Newport. A contemporary restaurant offering modern British cuisine. When entering the pretty brick-fronted building, you’re welcomed into a cozy, eclectic bar area to the left an the open kitchen to the right.
Opposite the open kitchen are three tables allowing an excellent view on all the action. We were seated upstairs in the cosy dining room.
Owner & Head Chef Robert Thompson was born in Bedfordshire England and started his cooking career with an apprenticeship at L’Ortolan * in Shinfield. After working at a few other places working under his brother Patrick, he ended up as a commis chef at Winteringham Fields, Lincolnshire in 2001. Robert was named Head Chef six years later at the age of 23 and was awarded a Michelin star in his own right. making him the youngest British chef to receive one. Less than two years later Robert received another Michelin star at The Hambrough restaurant in Ventnor on the Isle of Wight, which was the first star on the island. A job at the George Hotel in nearby Yarmouth followed, before opening his first solo restaurant on the Isle of Wight in 2015, putting his name on the building.
Thompson’s is open from Wednesday to Saturday for both lunch and dinner. There is the à la carte menu, a Seasonal Set Menu (2 courses for £29 and 3 courses for £35), which is not available on Saturday evening, and a 5-course Tasting Menu (at £65). On the website they mention an 8-course Tasting Menu (at £79), but that was not offered to us.
We had dinner two weeks ago on a Saturday and had the 5-course Tasting Menu with a matching wine flight (at £110).
The first amuse was a truffle arancini ball with a pancetta mayo. Very pleasant and comforting taste.
Black treacle sourdough bread had a good texture, although the crust was quite thick. Pecan butter to go with it.
Cutlery is not laid out for you. but can be found in your personal cutlery drawer in the table.
Another amuse of cauliflower cream topped with crispy shallot and chive oil. Simple ingredients, tasting very fine.
Tasty tomato seasoned quite heavy on the salt. With a filo pastry cigarette of punchy local green barn goats cheese. Smooth flavours of goats whey sorbet and a tomato water dressing. Contrasting mouth feels and flavours combined in a refreshing summery dish with admirable taste.
Cuttlefish cut into strips like a tagliatelle had a lovely texture. Sesame and lime dressing was excellent with the cuttlefish, bringing the right level of acidity. Soy and bonito flakes adding complexity and a nice crunch of roasted local radishes and a cuttlefish cracker. Lovely dish!
An alternative dish for Joanne. Lobster cannelloni with prawns and a deep flavoured, hearty, prawn bisque. Herring roe on the cannelloni adding a pleasant saltiness to the dish. A neat and delicious lobster dish, catching the characteristic flavours of a bisque beautifully.
The ray wing was roasted well and had great taste. Not pleasant to eat with the bones in. Especially when they forget to tell you the bones were in and you take a bite! Sautéed wild mushrooms on top of parsley polenta. Red wine and garlic puree was too strong and overpowering and the baby onions didn’t really play a part. The different elements on this plate didn’t connect or blend together. This dish needs some TLC.
Rump of lamp with a lightly charred flavour was nice, but the pieces were quite different texture wise. Some nice and succulent, other almost tough. The lamb in the slice of braised lamb shoulder “hotpot” was delicious, but the potatoes were a bit too hard. Bbq pea puree and warm minted pea salad working beautifully with the lamb. On top of the hotpot a ewes milk ravioli, like molten cheese and was lovely and the best part on the plate. A few tweaks and it will be mouth wateringly delicious.
A cheeseboard with four cheeses from the Isle of White. A blue cheese, a brie-style and two hard cheeses. A thin cracker and a tasty quince paste. This was offered complementary, to make up for not mentioning the bones in the ray wing dish. Very attentive!
Pre-dessert was mango and passionfruit bavarois with a pink peppercorn merengue. And matcha ice cream with some cookie crumbs. Very enjoyable and a nice melody of flavours!
Lemon curd parfait with great texture and good level of tanginess. Candied lemon and sugared verbena leaves on top. Baked verbena meringue on top of the silky smooth verbena milk ice cream. Good dessert!
Service was friendly, respectful but not impersonal, creating an atmosphere that was more bistro than exclusive restaurant. All aligned with the interior, the cutlery drawer and the menu itself. Resulting in a casual and relaxed dining experience.
Dishes appear to be simple, but are a well-judged assembly of contributing elements! Showcasing the experience and expertise of the star-strewn Chef. Some dishes need attention, but overall we had very enjoyable culinary evening. Love the cosy feel of the place and we will definitely meet again on our next visit to the island!
